Praemonstratensian Canoness’ Habit of around 1200

Between 1160 and 1250 roughly European Orders began to codify their habits. Whereas before certain orders had always shown a preference for certain colours, yet each cloister had its own habit, some even going only so far as to prescribe dark and somber colours for their inhabitants, which led to the dark greens, reds and blues we can see on the sisters from Odilienberg in Herrad von Landsbergs “hortus delicarum”, and which must have been quite expensive. After 1250, however, the orders had arrived at the colour schemes that they are still wearing today, and which we would recognise as monastic habits.

Careful research showed that the order of the Praemonstratensians was not only active all over Europe during that period, but did also grow rapidly due to its popularity, and the first communities of Praemonstratensian nuns were founded at that time. It was a so-called “reformed order”, where the monastic rules were enforced rather strongly. We can therefore assume that the colours prescribed for the members’ habits in the monastic rules from the founding of the order were strictly adhered to, and were the same as they still are today.

The garments worn, however, might not have been the same as today, and were definitely cut different from todays habits, as old-fashioned as they might appear to us. Judging from contemporary depictions, monastic habits followed fashionable clothing, though omitting most extremes and costly decorations.

Contemporary fine clothing usually consisted of a more than floor length over-tunic with sometines extremely wide sleeves over an under tunic or cotte with tight, overlong sleeves pushed up the forearm to form a series of wrinkles. Underneath a shift of linen might have been worn, but was at that time not yet customary. These garments were often very colourful, if the wearer could affort it.

The reconstructed Praemonstratensian habit therefore has a cotte of fine woollen twill under a tunic with moderately widening sleeves. Both garments are overlong, reflecting the members’ social status and their dedication to a life of contemplation rather than manual labour, and show the Praemonstratensian colour of undyed white wool. The tunic is bound with a plain self-fabric belt tied into a simple knot. The habit is completed with an ensemble of veils, one white linen veil to wrap tightly around the head, leaving only the face free, one white woollen veil to go over this, and one black woollen veil to cover the whole. The veils are pinned into place with small pins with wound tops to keep them from slipping off the head.

Translated into monastic terms these garments would be called a tunica (the cotte), a cingulum (the belt), and a cuculla (the over-tunic). The scapulier was not at that time part of the habit.

pin with wound top, in use from around 1100 AD

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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up-dated: 30.05.2006