You do have servants for almost everything, so you have lots of time to spend in the park or with charitable needle-work. You can play one or more instruments, and can probably ride. Unless for pleasure you rarely walk, otherwise you use the carriage.

You regularly attend social events, and have a maid to dress your hair and help you with your garments. You do have access to fashion magazines, so your garments will very likely be of the latest style and finest tailoring.

Below I have listed some garments that will make a nice and flexible wardrobe (1795 - 1805), the absolute minimum for a weekend is in black, the optional extras for more variety or longer events are in red.

Contents of a Ladies’ Travelling Chest
  • two fine, decorated chemises (or shifts) of mid-calf length or slightly longer
  • a night gown
  • a dressing gown or banyan
  • one pair of short stays (unneccessary if your dresses have inbuild bodices and you have small breasts)
  • one pocket to tie around your waist (dresses should have pocket slits accordingly)
  • one coloured petticoat (for variety, usually chemise and stays are sufficient)
  • two pairs of stockings, one with coloured clocks, plus one pair of garters
  • silk stockings for formal wear
  • one un-trained white or cream muslin dress with detacheable long sleeves (sleeves for morning wear)
  • one muslin dress, probably trained and more elaborate, but also with detacheable sleeves, in white or creme
  • one fine chemisette (also for morning wear)
  • another different chemisette or ruched kerchief
  • one silken sash (a very inexpensive way to give your dress a stylish new look)
  • one peplos with ultra-short sleeves (to give your dress yet another look, and you some warmth)
  • one sleeveless spencer (still more variety)
  • one cashmir shawl (for indoor warmth and decoration)
  • another cashmir shawl in a different colour
  • a trained robe with elbow-length sleeves (or a full-fledged formal dress)
  • one pair of long white or beige gloves (preferrably of cotton, as they will get dirty, trust me)
  • one (or two, maybe one coloured) pair of gloves for afternoon or outdoor wear, probably shorter
  • one reticule to carry your neccessities
  • an ornate reticule for the evening
  • two morning caps (so that you can have breakfast before getting your hair dressed)
  • silkscarves, silk flowers and feathers (for evening headwear)
  • one overgarment such as a warm spencer, or redingote
  • one elegant bonnet or hat for outdoor wear
  • a riding habit, if you want to go walking or even riding in style
  • riding boots or fine black cloth gaiters
  • two pairs of shoes, one white for indoor and evening wear, and one dark for day and outdoor wear (white leather is fine for both day and formal wear, but it cleans much better than satin!)
  • satin dancing slippers or coloured shoes

an elegantly restrained ball dress

Trying to play a role like this you should definitely think about period jewelry, real lace and hand embroidery on the dresses, a collection of cashmir shawls (just kidding), accessoires in at least two different colourways, leather gloves for the evening, antique fans, parasols, fur muffs and the like. In one word: Refined. And yes, this will be rather expensive. Because you cannot play the great Lady with “ten thousand a year” if your host’s personal maid servant is consistently better dressed than you.

Nevertheless, carefully choosing your garments and accessoires will help you immensely in putting up a brave display: With detacheable sleeves and the chemisette you can make the two dresses look like six: short-sleeved morning dress, long-sleeved morning dress, short-sleeved evening dress respectively for both dresses.

As a rule you should keep the essentials (dresses, gloves, stockings, shoes) as plain as possible, so that accessoires of any colour will match and complement them. If you plan to have accessoires of different colours, make sure that accessoires which might be worn together (e.g. cashmir shawl, reticule and peplos, or reticule and silk sash) are of matching colours.

Morning dress should have long sleeves and was usually worn with the neckline filled with a finely empbroidered chemisette or kerchief (you may also use the silk scarf), head-dress should be rather plain, an elegant cap works very well (remember not to wear the same cap at two successive breakfasts!). Indoors no gloves were worn until dinner.
As the day progresses, dress may become more elaborate, add for example an elegantly tailored and trimmed sleeveless spencer or a peplos. If you go outside in foul weather, wear a dress without train, since you will most likely have no possibility of getting it cleaned during the event, which means one dress less to wear.
Formal dress (dinner, evening, dancing, ball) can be elaborately embroidered and should have short sleeves and long gloves, low necklines with suitable jewelry and smart accessoires such as reticule, peplos, spencer, or a robe. Go for flamboyant hair styles with either flowers, feathers, juwels or scarves (or indeed all of those).
Make your outdoor over-garment (whether it be spencer or redingote) as warm as possible, as you can use a cashmir shawl in warmer weather when less protection is needed. After all, outdoor overgarments are not solely for decoration, but also to protect you from the cold.

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Text von/by Ann-Dorothee Schlüter
Bilder/pictures © www.ArtsetMetiers.de.